Kicking off the BT – an intro guide by Andy Perkins

Boardman Tasker Award 2019
© Henry Iddon

Festival Opening Night 2015

Back in 2015, Kendal Mountain Festival had its grand opening in the high street.  We had a huge pop-up screen set up right in front of the Town Hall.  Hundreds of people were gathered, kids on foam mats at the front, and row upon row of expectant faces receding into the gloom as the music pumped and the excitement mounted.

It was my role as presenter and “Face of the Fest” to get up on stage and kick the whole show off.  I’d always have butterflies as the trailer played and I got ready to set the tone for the Festival.  That year, the sound feed for the very first film dropped out, so I had to jump back up on stage and ad-lib while the tech crew worked their magic.  I talked utter nonsense: my recent climbing trip to Kalymnos, the cut of my trousers, my favourite type of bouldering moves… it seemed like an age but was probably only a couple of minutes.

Coming off stage, Festival Director Steve Scott came up to me and said “What on earth was that bollocks you were spouting? It was brilliant. Janet Dean from the BT asks if you can do something for the Boardman Tasker next year”.  And the rest (to use a cliché that’s as well-worn as the routes above the Catwalk at Malham) is history.

The brief from the Boardman Tasker team was pretty broad – just get everyone relaxed – the short-listed authors, the judges, Steve Venables (yes - even the Central Scrutiniser can get stage butterflies) and above all the audience. One of my guiding principles of presenting is to get plenty of audience interaction and I’ve been lucky to know some of the protagonists personally. Sir Chris B is always there, as is Dennis Gray. Graham Desroy was chief judge one year, and shortlisted authors have included my friends Mick Fowler, Nick Bullock and Victor Saunders. Tony Howard and Di Taylor are always in the room and after many years of doing the gig I’m proud to count Janet and Steve Dean and the wonderfully dedicated Martin Wragg among my friends as well.

When I first started thinking about how I should set the tone for the event, there were two main themes:
1. Point out that mountain literature has lots of other channels than books.
We can’t have the literati taking themselves too seriously. And
2. Make it light-hearted, irreverent and funny.

Here’s my notes from the inaugural address in 2016:

 

Each year, I’ve trawled the seabed of my brain for different ways with words to express what mountains mean to us as a community. I’ve used sources as diverse as poetry and guidebook iconography. I especially enjoyed using descriptions of mountains in children’s books, specifically The Hobbit and Winnie The Pooh. One of the biggest laughs I’ve ever had from the audience was when Christopher Robin and Winnie the Pooh have the following exchange while hunting for the North Pole:

"We are all going on an Expedition," said Christopher Robin.

"Going on an Expotition?" said Pooh eagerly. "I don't think I've ever been on one of those. Where are we going to on this Expotition?"
"Expedition, silly old Bear. It's got an 'x' in it."
"Oh!" said Pooh. "I know." But he didn't really.

"We're going to discover the North Pole."
"Oh!" said Pooh again. "What is the North Pole?" he asked.
"It's just a thing you discover," said Christopher Robin carelessly, not being quite sure himself. 

"Oh! I see," said Pooh. "Are bears any good at discovering it?"
"Of course they are. And Rabbit and Kanga and all of you. It's an Expedition. That's what an Expedition means. A long line of everybody.”
 

A gale of laughter went round the Malt Room (phew, thinks Andy. Result!).
The last line clearly resonated with quite a few folk in the Malt Room.

Initially I was quite cautious, wanting to ensure I did Pete and Joe (and the Award) justice. As the gigs went by, I felt I could push the envelope a little more. One year we had a live quiz to identify the mountain related song lyrics, where the audience had to guess the song titles from a sound bite, after which we’d play the extract. Here they are again for your delectation and delight. No cheating by referring to Google:

You say the hill's too steep to climb
Climb it.
You say you'd like to see me try
Climbing.

You pick the place
and I'll choose the time
And I'll climb
The hill in my own way.
Just wait a while
for the right day.

Pretty easy that one…
Now try this for size.

Amusing belly dancers
Distract me from my wine
Across Tibetan mountains
Are memories of mine
I've stood some ghostly moments
With natives in the hills
Recording here on paper
My chills and thrills and spills

One culturally attuned audience member got it before we played the clip.
Hats off to that man, whoever you are.

I was particularly pleased to use that last line, as BT shortlisted authors often spend time in the hills and record on paper their chills and thrills and spills. These lyrics are followed by a banging 70’s rock guitar solo which fades to a pulsing drumbeat. Welcoming a besuited Martin Wragg to the stage, waving my arms around like Kermit the Frog on the Muppet Show was one of the dafter moments in my Kendal career.

Music has a real power to raise emotion and set a tone.
Just a few days before the 2019 festival, the innovative and inspirational climber (and BT shortlisted author) Andy Pollitt had died suddenly with a cerebral aneurysm.
His friend Steve Dean asked me to say a few words before we kicked off the second half when the award gets announced. It can be quite hard to get people to take their seats as they’re often in white-wine-fuelled conversation with friends. This time it was easy: the cover of Andy’s book “Punk in the Gym” appeared on screen, accompanied by a very loud 60 seconds of Joan Jett’s version of “Let’s Do It”. Everyone was firmly sat down as the last chord crashed. I stood up and said:
Ladies and gentlemen. The Punk has left the Gym. A minute’s silence would be inappropriate”.
It’s one of my finer lines, and I like to think that Pollitt would have approved.

Similarly, I’d like to think that the spirits of Pete and Joe, borne by the jet stream from the north-north-east ridge of Everest, swept round the world, up Kendal High Street and into the Brewery Arts Centre, would stand at the back of the Malt Room and grin quietly. It’s been a real privilege to try and do them justice each year, and a pleasure bringing the event to Kendal.

When the BT moved to an online event in the aftermath of Covid, I had the challenge of maintaining the same principles of tone but without the audience interaction. The bonus was that I’d be “presenting” at home in Chamonix rather than in the darkness of the Malt Room, and that gave some location opportunities and source of inspiration. My first broadcast was from the foot of the boulder in Snell’s field, and 2021’s BT intro used steep skiing as a metaphor for writing books.

I retired from my position as presenter coordinator at KMF after the 2021 Festival, and when the tribe gathers in Kendal on the 19th November, I’ll be on a flight to Antarctica.

Meanwhile, my thanks to the Boardman Tasker Award for Mountain Literature team for all their hard work in bringing it to the public, the authors for their creativity and inspiring us to do more, and to you the audience for tolerating my irreverence each year. 2023 is of course forty years since the first Boardman Tasker Award for Mountain Literature. Here’s to many more!

Cheers. 🍻

Andy P

Chamonix
September 2022

2022 Boardman Tasker Award for Mountain Literature Shortlist Announced

The Boardman Tasker Award for Mountain Literature continues to attract a substantial level of entries. This year there were 40 entries, from Great Britain, Canada, Germany, Italy, New Zealand, Peru and the USA. The Award will be made at the Boardman Tasker Shortlisted Authors and Awards event at the Kendal Mountain Festival, on Friday November 18th 2022 at 7 to 9pm (UK time).

Tickets available here.

The judges for 2022 are Marni Jackson (Chair), Matt Fry and Natalie Berry. They have selected the following 6 books for this year’s shortlist:


Kieran Cunningham

CLIMBING THE WALLS
Learning to Cope When your World Crumbles

Simon & Schuster

A highly engaging, often humorous account of a dedicated climber who is forced to spend the pandemic in lockdown, in Italy, mostly NOT climbing—and the consequences for his mental health.  A reminder of why mountains matter.

Kieran Cunningham is a Scottish climber and journalist who lives in Sondrio, Italy, a mountainous part of Lombardy which lies south of the Swiss border and about fifty miles from Lake Como. He has lived there for six years, having arrived as a teacher and then switching to a full-time career as a climbing journalist, writing for the Observer, Little India, Cool of the Wild, and Moja Gear as well as editing the outdoors blog My Open Country.


Anna Fleming

TIME ON ROCK
A Climber’s Route into the Mountains

Canongate Publishing

A gorgeously written, elegant and sensual account of the intimate relationship between climber and rock, whether it’s the gritstone of the Peak District or the granite of the Cairngorms.  A peripatetic meditation on how “we shape the rock and the rock shapes us”.

Anna Fleming is a regular contributor to Caught by the River and has also published her work in various journals, magazines and anthologies. As well as writing for the Guardian, she keeps a regular blog, The Granite Sea, in which she writes about her experiences of the natural world. Anna is a qualified Mountain Leader who has also worked for the Cairngorms National Park Authority and completed a PhD with the University of Leeds. She lives in Edinburgh. 


Brian Hall

HIGH RISK
Climbing to Extinction

Sandstone Press

Brian Hall grew up with the radical climbers who would come to define a wild and glorious chapter of Himalayan mountaineering in the late nineteen seventies and eighties. He partied with them, climbed with them, and grieved many of the eleven unforgettable climbers portrayed in his book.  High Risk takes the reader right to the heart and soul of the golden age of UK climbing.

Climbing exploits worldwide led Brian Hall to become an internationally certified mountain guide who provides extreme location safety and rigging for the film industry. His numerous credits include the BAFTA award-winning film Touching the Void. Between 1980 and 2008, he co-directed the Kendal Mountain Film Festival of which he is a founder. Brian and his wife, Louise, divide their time between the UK’s Peak District and New Zealand’s Southern Alps.


Robert Charles Lee

THROUGH DANGEROUS DOORS
A Life at Risk

WiDO Publishing

Robert Charles Lee is a professional risk scientist who likes to test his own limits, in life, love and in the mountains, climbing rock and ice.  He doesn’t play safe with his writing either, offering readers his unfiltered, sometimes jaw-dropping account of what it means to take risks, and survive.

Robert Charles Lee is a retired scientist, with a former career in risk analysis, decision analysis, and risk management. His work ranged from patient safety to radioactive waste to asteroid impact risk - and yes, mountaineering risk. He was born in North Carolina, USA and lived there for over twenty years, but has since lived and worked in Alaska, Oregon, Washington, New Mexico, and Alberta, Canada. He currently lives in Colorado with his wife Linda and their two dogs.

 


Helen Mort

A LINE ABOVE THE SKY
A Story of Mountains and Motherhood

Ebury Press

One of Britain’s best young poets draws a line between the risks and terrors of motherhood and an untethered life in the mountains. Shadowing the life of Alison Hargreaves, the pioneering UK climber who did not give up alpinism when she became a mother, Helen Mort brilliantly explores the visceral education that is part of climbing mountains, and giving birth.

Helen Mort was born in Sheffield in 1985, and grew up in nearby Chesterfield. Five times winner of the Foyle Young Poets Award, she received an Eric Gregory Award in 2007 and won the Manchester Young Writer Prize in 2008. Her first collection, Division Street (2013), was shortlisted for the T.S. Eliot Prize and Costa Poetry Award, and won the Fenton Aldeburgh First Collection Prize. In 2014, she was named as a 'Next Generation Poet', the prestigious accolade announced only once every ten years, recognising the 20 most exciting new poets from the UK and Ireland. No Map Could Show Them (2016), her second collection, about women and mountaineering, was a Poetry Book Society Recommendation. Helen has been the Wordsworth Trust Poet in Residence and the Derbyshire Poet Laureate and was named one of the RSL's 40 under 40 Fellows in 2018. She is a Lecturer in Creative Writing at Manchester Metropolitan University and lives in Sheffield. Black Car Burning was her first novel, and A Line Above the Sky is her first work of narrative memoir.


Paul Pritchard

THE MOUNTAIN PATH
A Climber’s Journey through Life & Death

Vertebrate Publishing

The author of Deep Play has gone even deeper in this investigation into the spiritual rewards of a life in the mountains.  After Paul was almost killed by a falling rock while climbing a sea stack in Tasmania, he had to push through new physical limitations to philosophical insights that changed his life.  A beautifully written, devastatingly honest account of choosing to live.

Paul was a cutting-edge rock climber and mountaineer hailing from the UK. His climbing adventures took him from Wales to the Himalayas and from Baffin Island to Patagonia.

When he won the Boardman Tasker Award for Mountain Literature in 1997, with his book Deep Play, he used the prize money on a world climbing tour that found him in Tasmania climbing a slender sea stack known as The Totem Pole. It was here that all he had known before was turned on its head.

On Friday the 13th of February 1998 a TV-sized boulder falling from twenty-five meters inflicted such terrible head injuries that doctors thought he might never walk or even speak again.

Being in hospital for a year gave Paul the impetus to write his second book: The Totem Pole. This narrative about his personal journey through hemiplegia won him an unprecedented second Boardman Tasker prize, and the Banff Mountain Book Festival Grand Prize. His most recent book is The Mountain Path published in 2021.


*All comments on the books are courtesy of Marni Jackson, 2022 Chair of Judges.

Once again the Award continues to attract a high level of interest and entries on a variety of aspects of the mountain environment.

Steve Dean
Secretary
Boardman Tasker Charitable Trust

08/09/2022

40 Year Anniversary of when Pete and Joe were lost

May 17th 2022 is the Fortieth Anniversary of the last sighting of Pete Boardman and Joe Tasker as they moved up the North East Ridge of Everest. They had left Advanced Base Camp on May 15th in a final attempt to climb the mountain. That day they reached the second snow cave, and the following day (16th) they reached the third snow cave. On the 17th they would go on to The Pinnacles and then head for the summit. Chris Bonington and Adrian Gordon had made their way to the North Col which was a possible route of descent for Pete and Joe. They were seen just below the Second Pinnacle having been climbing for 14 hours, and then moved out of sight. They were never seen again. Chris and Adrian waited at the North Col for four days but there was to be no sign of Pete and Joe.
A catastrophe had occurred.


Peter Boardman obituary by Dr Charles Clarke

Joe Tasker obituary by Dick Renshaw

High Magazine obituary (issue no.5 Oct/Nov 1982)

For the full story, please see the article Everest 1982, 40 years on


All images below © Chris Bonington archive

Three tiny figures of Pete, Joe and Dick ascending the first pinnacle on Everest

Joe, Pete and Dick on first pinnacle Everest 1982

Pete and Joe in red mountaineering suits on the Rongbuk glacier with blue sky

Pete and Joe on the Rongbuk glacier on Everest 1982

Pete and Joe sitting below a tree in the shade smiling and holding a drink

Joe Tasker and Peter Boardman 1982

Pete and Joe wearing red mountaineering suits, sitting in advanced basecamp, surrounded by camping equipment.

Pete and Joe at advanced base the afternoon before their final attempt

Joe sitting writing at a table in base camp

Joe Tasker at base camp on Everest 1982

Pete Boardman sitting at a table in base camp studying the map

Pete Boardman at base camp on Everest 1982

Pete and Joe roped together beginning the ascent from advance base, in red suits, contrasting with the snow and rock, and bright blue sky.

Pete and Joe leaving advance base on the final climb 1982

A red tent and figure sitting next to the tent, looking at the dark rock and moody skies over the north east ridge.

Waiting for Joe and Pete on the North East ridge of Everest in 1982

The Adventurous Spirit of Pete and Joe lives on

The New Zealand alpine team announced on Facebook on 7 May that Matthew Scholes, Kim Ladiges & Daniel Joll made the second ascent of the West Ridge and summited Changabang.

“In 1976 Pete Boardman and Joe Tasker climbed the West Ridge of Changabang. Their ascent considered the hardest high altitude alpine climb in the world for the time sat un repeated for the last 46 years. That is despite over 20 expeditions attempting it. Changabang 6880m has not seen a successful ascent to the summit and return to BC in over 24 years. Both those facts changed last week when 3 of our team members made the second ascent of the West Ridge and summited Changabang. Nice work Matthew Scholes Kim Ladiges & Daniel Joll!”

Read the post here

Read more in the following articles…

Explorers Web - Kiwi Climbers Repeat Boardman & Tasker’s ‘Shining Mountain’

Dream Wanderlust - NZ Alpine Team Summits Changabang after 46 years by the epochal West Ridge Route

Image © New Zealand alpine team

Celebrating Pete & Joe - Sacred Summits 40th Anniversary Review

Continuing the Celebrating Pete and Joe series, in this fortieth year since their deaths, here is a piece on Sacred Summits.

Sacred Summits by Peter Boardman (originally published by Hodder and Stoughton, 1982)

40th Anniversary Review by Hilary Rhodes (formerly Boardman) and Chris Harle

Sacred Summits describes a year in the life of Peter Boardman, a 29-year-old high-altitude mountaineer, and the mind-boggling commitment needed to succeed on the tightrope between life and death at the elite level of mountaineering. During the latter part of 1978 and most of 1979 Pete took part in three major expeditions whilst juggling with the duties of the B.M.C. and the British Mountain Guides Association, the attractions of a blossoming relationship and the impending death of his father.  What drives expeditioners to constantly battle through barriers of officialdom and bureaucratic nonsense, keep on climbing when utterly exhausted, or braving unjustifiable leads and treacherous conditions when turning back is the only sensible option? 

Although a “hard man” mountaineer, Pete was known to have a very gentle and romantic nature that seemed at odds with his chosen profession. However, it might not initially have seemed that way to Pete’s girlfriend, Hilary, who joined him on the first expedition of that year. As the highest mountain between the Andes and the Himalaya, the Carstenz Pyramid in Western New Guinea is regarded by many as one of the Seven Summits. Just getting into the interior of New Guinea demanded a certain unflinching naïve hope when refused access on multiple occasions as they “plane hopped” around the island looking for a breach in the bureaucratic maze. Eventually a pilot of the Seventh Day Adventists took pity on them and flew Pete and Hilary into a Stone Age world where a priest helped them to organise porters and gave the rudimentary communication skills needed to talk to them.

Just crossing the jungle to their eventual base camp, was a marathon of pain. The relentless bad weather, the chossy rock and unstable ice, and with Hilary to rely on as a climbing partner, all provided a recipe for potential disaster. Yet they never questioned their journey. Those were the invincible times of youth forged from Pete’s great physical strength and skill. Hilary trusted him implicitly and literally followed him to what seemed like the end of the Earth to eventually climb the South Face to the summit. The return journey back to civilisation had the dream-like quality that comes with being “in love”. As Pete wrote, “we came out of the highland on an upper floor, sharing an eternal secret.”

The second expedition was the remarkable ascent of Kangchenjunga by Pete, Joe Tasker, Doug Scott and Georges Bettembourg. It was only the third ascent since first climbed in 1955, but notably by a new route with limited Sherpa support and no supplemental oxygen. This climb, along with the exploits of Messner and Habeler, marked a turning point away from the huge siege style Himalayan expeditions. Pete’s account is rich in believable dialogue, literary references and historical asides which bring to life his climbing companions and the drudgery of attempting such a big mountain. 

He also hints at the developing relationship with Joe Tasker. Most “of our conversation was spent mocking and deflating each other. Joe was best at this, making tight-lipped remarks like gunshot, but out of many past altercations a lot of respect and trust seemed to have grown, and neither suspected malice anymore.” 

Pete is equally insightful about Doug Scott’s “home-baked psychological musings. He’s either undergoing a second adolescence or he’s in touch with something beyond the range of all the rest of us. He has a clever knack of self-parody and a ready laugh that makes it difficult to sense his level of seriousness.”

Gauri Sankar in Nepal was the next objective. The North summit had already been climbed in the spring of 1979 but the South summit, considered the most holy mountain of the Sherpas, had not been climbed before. A technically difficult and beautiful mountain, it is known as the Eiger of the Himalaya.

Attempting a second Himalayan peak in the same year, Pete felt like he might be pushing his limits. He was also feeling very torn emotionally as, just before leaving, he had learned that his father was terminally ill and so he was unsure if he would see him again. It was only after meeting up with Tim Leach, John Barry and Guy Neidhardt that he began to feel infected by the energy and enthusiasm of climbers new to the Himalaya. Pemba Sherpa completed the climbing team on their arrival in Kathmandu.

Pete’s beautiful prose describes the expedition’s long journey up the Bhote Kosi River with amusing cameos of the diverse characters getting to know each other. At Base Camp all had a profound respect for the Sherpas’ puja ceremony enacted for the safety of the expedition before the real climbing started. With minimal equipment and an unwillingness to return to Base Camp it was a nerve-wracking journey along the precarious fluted ridge of rock and cornices, from one perched camp to the next. A fall by John almost ended the expedition, “He’s fallen. The rope’ll never hold… He’s pulling me off the anchor, the rope’ll snap, I’ll go too.”

Relentless, dangerous climbing overwhelmed Pete at times, to the point of thinking; “Death was too near for me to resign myself to the risk. It was an absolute necessity that I should survive and return.” The journey to the summit and the descent back to base camp, were increasingly gripping as the team barely survived. “We were worn out cars running on empty.” It took Pete and his team an arduous 23 days at the limits of endurance to climb Gauri. 

In Kathmandu, Pete brooded as anxiety about his father grew, “Will he die whilst I am away?” Back in the UK, Pete went immediately to his parents’ house. He had four evenings with his father before he passed away. During that time he felt the close bond of love and support of family and friends, for his mother and brother. His father, accepting of his death, said to Pete “… this love is what will endure and be everlasting.” 

Pete realised, “there was no need to try to fight death off, by shrinking from the fact and acting as if it did not exist… I had learnt about motion, but now had much to learn about stillness… I was calm.” 

On a reflective note, Hilary writes:

I believe Pete faced his own death on the NNE Ridge of Everest with the same equanimity. On the very last page of Sacred Summits, unknowingly, he left a message for those who loved him, “Life could not be trusted unless peace was made with death; until life’s impermanence and imperfection was accepted, and that acceptance allowed to heal.”

In Pete’s Alpine Journal obituary, Charles Clarke asserts that Sacred Summits (published shortly after Pete’s death) “captured both the variety and intensity of three very different expeditions and which will, I believe, be held in years to come, among the greatest of climbing literature, for its merit rather than for its author's untimely end. “


Celebrating Pete & Joe - "Savage Arena - 40 Years On"

As part of our Celebrating Pete and Joe series, in this fortieth year since their deaths, here is a piece about Joe’s book, Savage Arena.


Savage Arena was published by Methuen in the autumn of 1982.  In the previous May, Joe, together with Pete Boardman had died on Everest attempting to climb the East Northeast Ridge of the mountain.  Joe has submitted the manuscript of the book to the publisher shortly before leaving for Everest.

Joe’s book was published at a similar time to Pete Boardman’s Sacred Summits and these two books have for almost forty years been regarded as a high point in British mountain writing and as worthy memorials to two young authors.  Savage Arena has always been a particular favourite of mine, as Joe’s writing skilfully balances a pragmatic approach with deeply considered observations and recollections, frequently containing humane and compassionate observations of his companions on the mountains.  There is no attempt to conceal the fact that high altitude mountaineering is a harsh, brutal and often dangerous activity.  To my mind no other writer has so clearly described the sheer hardship, fear and levels of self-doubt that comes from involvement in this activity.  Not until the publication of The Calling by Barry Blanchard in 2015, was the reader so totally drawn into their often beautiful but dangerous world.  A sense of menace inhabits much of the book and often leaves the reader astonished that people can go to such extremes and endure such pain and exhaustion in the pursuit of their dreams.

Savage Arena consists of seven chapters, covering Joe’s experiences in the mountains from 1975-1980.  This was a significant period in the development of mountaineering.  Messner and Haebler had climbed Everest in 1975 without the use of oxygen and this changed the whole nature of climbing the world’s highest mountains.  Joe was destined to be in the forefront of this change, together with the other key figures in the book, Dick Renshaw, Pete Boardman and Doug Scott.

Joe and Dick had started climbing together at Manchester University, and during the early seventies established themselves as one of Britain’s top alpine teams with a series of very impressive climbs in the Alps.  Two friends of mine camped alongside them at Zermatt in the summer of 1972, and were astonished at their very frugal lifestyle (attempting to live in Zermatt on £1 a day!) and full of admiration at the boys’ obvious ability and determination.

The first two chapters of the book describes their initial attempt, and then five days and nights climbing The North Wall of the Eiger (1938 route) in February 1975.  At that time winter ascents of the route were rare, and winter climbing in the Alps was a new area for British climbers.  Joe clearly describes the hardship and solitude they experience and lavishes praise on the toughness and ability of Dick as they battle up the route.  Their success on this firmly established them in the forefront of British alpinists.

Later that summer Joe and dick bought a beat-up van and set off for a first trip to the Himalayas, and an attempt on the south-East Ridge of Dunagiri at just over 23,000ft in the Nanda Devi region.  The climb and the return to Base Camp occupies eleven days and nights, and although Joe records the beauty of the area and the awesome view of Changabang, the experiences proves to be a very hard one.  The ascent of the mountain was a fine achievement, but exhausted and half starved their descent turns into an epic and they become separated.  For a while Joe is fearful that Dick has died, and when they are reunited at Base Camp Dick has frostbitten hands and needs urgent treatment.  Joe’s compassion for his friend is very evident, and a flight back to the UK is finally secured for Dick.  Joe has an epic journey overland back home but the success on this climb proves to be a significant turning point particularly for Joe.  The long periods of isolation and hardship on Dunagiri would prove to be a portent of the years ahead.

In 1976, with Dick still recovering from frostbite, Joe approaches Pete Boardman with a proposal to attempt the west face of Changabang.  At this stage they only knew each other in passing, and the route they had in mind was a very bold proposal.  Joe’s account of the considerable difficulties of the route make for good reading but the real interest lies in the efforts of Joe and Pete to get to know each other, and the conflicts they overcome.  Joe is very generous in his comments about Pete and a strong partnership is established.  Their ascent of Changabang by a very difficult route was for the time a superb achievement and in mountaineering terms Joe and Pete became world figures.  One of the finest sections of writing in the book describes their return to Base Camp and the discovery that a nearby American expedition to Dunagiri has suffered the loss of four members on the mountain.  Joe’s account of their efforts to help the remaining members of the team, and their work in securing the dead climbers’ bodies in a crevasse is full of humanity and a deep compassion.  Their joy at their own triumph instantly tempered by this utter disaster nearby.  The efforts of Joe and Pete in helping these people speaks volumes as to the men they were.

Joe and Pete’s triumph on Changabang had drawn them to the attention of Chris Bonington who invited them to join an expedition to attempt the West Ridge of K2.  The team includes Nick Estcourt, Doug Scott, Tut Braithwaite and Chris himself.   It is interesting to read about Joe’s reaction to being in a large expedition of this type, and his efforts to get to know Chris in particular.  Both Pete and Joe formed a friendship with Nick Escort and are devastated when early in the expedition Nick is killed in an avalanche.  The expedition is abandoned, but Joe starts to form a friendship with Doug Scott.  Joe’s honest assessments of this trip are most revealing regarding the complexities of a large expedition.

The centrepiece for me is Joe’s account of the 1979 expedition to climb Kangchenjunga by the North ridge, not least because the ascent by Joe, Pete Boardman and Doug Scott is one of the greatest achievements by British climbers.  This was a very difficult new route on the world’s third highest mountain climbed without oxygen.  It was arguably Joe, Pete and Doug’s finest mountaineering achievement.  The trip was not without incidents; Joe suffers badly with illness early on and Pete is injured by rockfall.  In an early attempt the team is hit by avalanche during the night and are lucky to survive.  A further attempt in mid May is successful.

The final long chapter Apocalypse, describes the 1980 Expedition back to K2.  Again the objective was the unclimbed West Ridge.  The team of Joe, Pete Boardman, Dick Renshaw and Doug Scott reached 23,000ft on the ridge but were defeated by very poor conditions on the mountain and poor weather.  A week later they attempt to climb the mountain by the Abruzzi Spur but are forced to retreat and Doug returned to Britain.  A second attempt get a camp established at 26,000 ft. but again they are forced to retreat.  This descent turned into an epic and Joe, Pete and Dick were exhausted when they returned to Base Camp.  A third attempt was made a week later, when they again reached 26,000ft.  This time they were forced back by a combination of bad weather and exhaustion.  K2 was to remain a serious objective particularly for Pete Boardman.

That then is an overview of Savage Arena, a superb account of mountain activity over six years and in my opinion, an absolute classic of British mountain literature.  Joe writes with a delightful clarity and honesty, and his own doubts and fears are clearly laid out along with his warm admiration and deep gratitude for his companions in what is truly a Savage Arena indeed.   The book remains in print after forty years and is readily available.  It has been a source of inspiration ever since its publication.

Steve Dean

2021 Boardman Tasker Award for Mountain Literature - The Winner

Our Congratulations to David Smart for winning the 2021 Boardman Tasker Award for Mountain Literature with his book Emilio Comici - Angel of the Dolomites.

A very impressive biography, well written and researched, of one of Italy's foremost climbers, who put up some of the first big wall climbs and developed new climbing style and techniques.

David Smart has been climbing since 1975 throughout North America and Europe. He has completed hundreds of new routes in eastern Canada and is the founder of Gripped, Canada’s Climbing Magazine, Canadian Running magazine, Canadian Cycling Magazine and Triathlon Magazine Canada. He is also the author of five climbing guidebooks; a memoir entitled A Youth Wasted Climbing, short-listed by the Banff Mountain Film and Book Festival in 2015; Paul Preuss: Life and Death at the Birth of Free-Climbing, short-listed for awards by both the Banff Mountain Film and Book Festival and The Boardman Tasker Award for Mountain Literature (UK); and he is the co-author with Brandon Pullan of Northern Stone: Canada’s Best Rock Climbs. He is the editorial director of Gripped Publishing and is still an active new-router in northern Ontario. He lives in Toronto, Ontario.

If you missed the Award Ceremony - you can watch it on Kendal Mountain Player here.

The Chair Of Judges’ speech by David Canning is available to read here.