Helen Mort
My first introduction to the world of mountaineering was through mountain literature - I encountered books about climbing before I did my first rock climbs in the Peak District. Nothing ever quite matched the thrill of being immersed in those stories. The Boardman Tasker Award is a vital part of our cultural landscape and a hugely important prize within the mountaineering community. It truly honours the legacy of Joe Tasker and Pete Boardman.
As a former judge of the prize and a former winner, I know how tough the decisions are and how much the BT Award means to authors.
I'm really excited to see poetry on this year's shortlist too!
Each year, the prize acts as an inspiration to those who have a story to tell and contributes to us uncovering new, perhaps overlooked perspectives. It has a vital role in defining what mountaineering literature can be.
Brian Hall - A Few Words on Joe & Pete
Joe and Pete were two powerhouses of world mountaineering from the mid 70’s to the early 80’s when they were part of an elite group making the change from heavyweight to lightweight alpine style. Their names are etched on the peaks they attempted. Changabang, Kangchenjunga, Kongur, K2 and Everest to name a few.
I knew Joe much better than Pete. For Joe, mountaineering filled his life and when he was not on an expedition he would be organising equipment, progressing his interest in mountain film making, writing books and lecturing. In 1980 we climbed together while trying to make a winter ascent (without supplementary oxygen) of Everest as part of an eight person British team. What an expedition! We were literally blown off the mountain at our high point of around 7500 metres. Yet it was a success; we all came back alive and without suffering frostbite, despite temperatures down to minus 50 C.
Joe was an enigma. When not on an expedition he rarely climbed and unlike Pete he enjoyed a party. I vividly remember late night wild times above his climbing shop, Magic Mountain, in Hope, Derbyshire. True to form on Everest he arrived the least fit of the team, yet at the end he was the strongest. More than anyone else I knew he had this unbelievable ability for his mind to push his body to the extreme.
The close-knit world of mountaineering lost two of its greatest characters high on the North East Ridge of Everest in 1982. At the time the ridge was unclimbed and alone they were pushing hard towards the summit with no support of fixed ropes or supplementary oxygen. Unbelievable in the context of what happens today on 8000 metre peaks. Although I was shocked and saddened by their deaths, I also realised they were doing what they loved and wanted to do. It was their passion and the desire to reach the summit which outreached the risks involved.
At that time, I read with wonder Joe’s book ’Savage Mountain’ and Pete’s ’The Shining Mountain’ thinking - ‘How could they be so talented to pen these two classic books of mountaineering?’ It is a tribute to their many talents that the Boardman Tasker Prize for Mountain Literature was established to help celebrate their lives and stimulate excellence in mountain writing.
Brian Hall July 2023
Joint winner of the 2022 Boardman Tasker Award for Mountain Literature, with 'HIGH RISK: Climbing to Extinction’ & Winner of The Himalayan Club Kekoo Naoroji Award 2022
And the NZMFF Best Mountain & Adventure Narrative 2023