Kanchenjunga 1979

© Ken Wilson’s archive

© Ken Wilson’s archive

Doug Scott, Georges Bettembourg, Joe and Pete photographed a week after they had climbed Kanchenjunga, the third highest mountain in the world in 1979.

Along with Changabang the ascent of this mountain was probably Pete and Joe’s finest mountaineering achievement. The mountain had only been climbed twice before, and never from the north. Their climb to the south summit was very committing and achieved in fine style. The mountain was first climbed in 1955 by Joe Brown and George Band followed the next day by the 2nd ascent by Norman Hardie and Tony Streather. In all the time since 1955 and their arrival in 1979, it was only climbed once.

You might like to read more about the Kanchenjunga South Summit climb with the article, with paragraph by Doug Scott here.